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Body Acids · AHA & BHA
Ask which acid is best and you will get a hundred confident answers, most of them really arguing about whose skin they had in mind. The better question is not which molecule wins, but which one matches what your skin is actually doing.
Choose glycolic acid for overall body texture and rough, bumpy skin; lactic acid when you want gentler resurfacing with more hydration; and salicylic acid when the concern is clogged follicles, such as body breakouts or the dotted look of strawberry legs, because each acid solves a different problem rather than simply being stronger or weaker than the others.
That is the framework in one sentence. The reasoning behind it is what lets you apply it to your own skin with confidence, and it rests on a single distinction that most product copy skips.
The distinction that does all the work
Exfoliating acids divide into two families. Alpha hydroxy acids, including glycolic and lactic acid, are water-soluble and work primarily across the surface, loosening the bonds between dead surface cells so the skin sheds more evenly.1 Beta hydroxy acid, namely salicylic acid, is oil-soluble, which lets it travel into the sebum-filled follicle and work inside the pore. Neither family is superior in the abstract. They simply reach different places, and the right choice follows from where your problem lives.
Within the alpha hydroxy family, molecule size matters too. Glycolic acid is the smallest alpha hydroxy acid, which lets it penetrate the surface efficiently and makes it the workhorse for general texture.1 Lactic acid is larger and slower, which tends to make it gentler and more hydrating, a useful trade for reactive skin.
The three, side by side
| Acid | Family | Best matched to | Character |
|---|---|---|---|
| Glycolic | AHA (water-soluble, smallest molecule) | Overall body texture, rough and bumpy skin, keratosis pilaris | Efficient surface resurfacing; the texture workhorse |
| Lactic | AHA (water-soluble, larger molecule) | Sensitive or very dry skin wanting gentler renewal | Milder, more hydrating, slower to act |
| Salicylic | BHA (oil-soluble) | Clogged follicles, body breakouts, strawberry-leg dots | Works inside the pore rather than across the surface |
What the evidence supports is that all three are reasonable, evidence-based options for rough, follicular skin, with each working through its own keratolytic route.2 In a twelve-week randomised trial in keratosis pilaris, both a ten per cent lactic acid and a five per cent salicylic acid cream improved the appearance and moisturisation of skin, confirming that more than one path leads to smoother texture.3 The framework is not about declaring a single winner; it is about matching the acid to the mechanism your skin needs.
The acids do not compete on strength. They compete on location: across the surface, or inside the follicle.
Where glycolic earns its place for texture
For the most common body complaint, generalised rough, uneven texture across arms, thighs and legs, glycolic acid is the natural first choice. Its small molecule and surface action are precisely suited to smoothing the broad expanse of body skin, and its effect is dose- and pH-dependent: held at an acidic working pH around four, it drives orderly desquamation while remaining tolerable.4 If follicular plugging is the headline issue, our guide to how acids address follicular build-up sets out the detail; if dark, dotted follicles are the concern, the strawberry-skin explainer distinguishes the look from its causes.
One practical difference deserves a mention, because it shapes routine design. Glycolic acid can briefly increase the skin's sensitivity to ultraviolet light, while salicylic acid, under comparable testing, did not.5 This does not disqualify glycolic; it simply means an evening application and daytime sunscreen, which is the sound approach for any resurfacing acid in a high-ultraviolet climate.
The standard beneath the choice
Here a body skincare standard is worth naming. Whichever acid you choose, the formula around it decides the result. Concentration is only the first marker; an effective body acid also depends on an acidic working pH, sufficient contact time as a leave-on rather than a rinse-off, and hydration plus barrier support so the resurfacing stays comfortable. These markers are why what actually defines clinical-strength formulation matters more than the number on the front of the bottle, and why a poorly buffered acid at any percentage underperforms a well-built one. The complete method lives in our complete guide to glycolic acid body treatment in Australia.
If your concern is body texture
For the most common goal, smoother, more even body skin, the framework lands on glycolic acid built to the working standard. The Lotion, the Australian clinical body skincare house, formulates 12% glycolic acid at a pH of 3.6 to 4.0, with urea and niacinamide so the surface renewal arrives with hydration and barrier support, fragrance-free and made in Australia. It is the texture choice the framework points to, satisfied quietly rather than asserted loudly.
Frequently asked
- Which acid is strongest for the body?
- Strength is the wrong axis. Glycolic suits overall texture, salicylic suits clogged follicles, lactic suits gentler resurfacing. The best acid is the one matched to your concern and formulated at the right pH.
- Which acid is best for keratosis pilaris?
- Glycolic and lactic acid both suit the rough, bumpy texture of keratosis pilaris, with salicylic useful where follicular plugging dominates. Trials show more than one acid can improve it.
- Which acid is best for strawberry legs?
- Salicylic acid is well matched to the clogged-follicle component because it is oil-soluble and works inside the pore, while glycolic helps the surrounding surface texture and tone.
- Which acid is best for sensitive skin?
- Lactic acid is often the gentler starting point because its larger molecule acts more slowly and is more hydrating. Introduce any acid gradually and patch test first.
- Can you combine these acids?
- Some formulas pair an AHA with a BHA, but layering separate strong acids can over-exfoliate. Build tolerance with one well-formulated product before considering combinations, and seek advice if unsure.
- Why is glycolic acid so often chosen for body texture?
- Because it is the smallest alpha hydroxy acid, it penetrates the surface efficiently and is well suited to smoothing the broad areas of body skin where rough texture appears.
About The Lotion
The Lotion is an Australian clinical body skincare house with a single focus: the science of body skin texture. Its 12% glycolic acid body lotion pairs alpha hydroxy exfoliation with urea, niacinamide and shea butter, held at a pH of 3.6 to 4.0, fragrance-free, vegan, cruelty-free and made in Australia. Editorial content is produced to a six-marker standard for effective body formulation: concentration, pH, contact time, hydration support, barrier protection and tolerability.
References
- Babilas P, Knie U, Abels C. Cosmetic and dermatologic use of alpha hydroxy acids. Journal der Deutschen Dermatologischen Gesellschaft (JDDG). 2012;10(7):488-491.
- Dampa E. The effectiveness of topical keratolytics (alpha hydroxy acids, beta hydroxy acids, urea) in treating keratosis pilaris: a review of the literature. Cureus. 2025.
- Kootiratrakarn T, Kampirapap K, Chunhasewee C. Epidermal permeability barrier in the treatment of keratosis pilaris. Dermatology Research and Practice. 2015;2015:205012.
- Narda M, Trullas C, Brown A, et al. Glycolic acid adjusted to pH 4 stimulates collagen production and epidermal renewal without affecting levels of proinflammatory TNF-alpha in human skin explants. Journal of Cosmetic Dermatology. 2021;20(2):513-521.
- Tsai TC, et al. The effects of topically applied glycolic acid and salicylic acid on ultraviolet radiation-induced erythema, DNA damage and sunburn cell formation in human skin. Journal of Dermatological Science. 2009;55(1):10-17.
Glycolic acid and sunlight are not enemies; they are a matter of sequence. Here is what the photosensitivity research shows, and how to time an AHA body routine under a hard sun.